1. These worms require a humidity of 50-70% for survival. Any conditions dryer that this is not suitable, which will result in worms dying.  This is the main reason why we keep these worms in bins, and when farming with worms (on the scale we do) we keep them under irrigation.

2. Food – These worms mainly feed on soft, moisture rich food, such as veggies and fruits. Garden refuse should be treated or very “old” and have a fine texture, before it can be decomposed by these worms.

3. Soil composition – These worms were not created by God to burrow deep into soil. They prefer living in the very top layer of soil which should consist out of plant “debri”. If this “rotten” plant material is not present, they will have to survive in the top soil layer. In our climate conditions, the top soil gets the most sun exposure which causes the temperature to rise to high and that the moist is removed from it. This will cause the death of the worms.  

4. When using the worm-tea, worms cocoons are not placed back into the veggie patches.  You can place the compost back into the gardens, but then to prevent the worms from spreading into it, the worms and cocoons need to harvest before you use the compost.  A method which can be used is by diluting the vermi-compost in water, making sure your cocoons are removed.  This liquid can then be applied into the gardens. This is however not required, but should you prefer, we will include this process in the training of the workers.

5. As far as we know, there are different types of earthworms present in all compost piles, and they “appear” when conditions are favorable.  No study that I could find, indicated that these worms are any bad for the environment.  I did come across a study in the rainforests where the decomposition was so fast, that there was too much compost for the trees to use, and this caused rotting of trees, not by the Eisenia fetida, though.  I do not think this is a danger in our climate.

6. With all surety I can say, that there should be no “escapees” from the bins.

The harvesting should take care of the rest.  Should we get any other “AWAP’s” these will do no harm, rather be a plus to the current environment and soil composition.

If you are in the worm business, please send us your URL so we can add it to our blogroll!!

Die wurms word in wurms houers aangehou. Hulle is nie gehard vir buite leef nie, en eet slegs sagte voedsel, soos groente en vrugte. Dit is die wurms wat jy moet aanskaf vir jou wurmhouer.

Indien jou erdwurms af gaan na die tee-houer, waar tee opgevang word, en hulle verdrink in die tee sal die reuk dit binne ‘n dag of twee verklap. Dit is ‘n onuithoubare stank!! Ek stel voor jy los eerder jou houer se kraan oop, indien jy byvoorbeeld ‘n waatlemoen ingesit het, of indien die lug baie vogtig is. Vang dan die tee in ‘n emmertjie op, voor die houer. Dit werk perfek.

As die wurmhouer se gate te groot geboor is en die wurms maklik na die onderste houer beweeg kan dit ook ‘n rede wees waarom daar so baie wurms is. Indien jy wil he hulle moet minder in die tee-houer inkom, sit ‘n skadu-net, gesny so groot soos jou wurmhouer se oppervlak onder, en begin dit kos daarop voer. Dit sal veroorsaak dat minder wurms ondertoe gaan, en steeds toelaat dat die tee deurloop.

Indien jy nog jou wurm houer moet maak, stel ek voor jy hou die gate kleiner wat afgaan na die teehouer, dit kan die probleem sommer van die begin af verminder.